Well, it still happens, just less. This was a part of it, but there's still some issue. I can do a lot of laps without issue now which is must better. But now it seems more to revolve around loading/timing of things. It will happen often at the beginning of the race, if I load new cars, etc. If I play with AI it happens a LOT more. It mostly seems to be a syncing problem of some sort, but I have no clue what or why. I'm no longer getting actual full disconnects like with the sleep issue, but I am still getting force feedback and dead wheel issues, just now with out the actual full on disconnects. So it's better but still...something.

I'm not lacking on computer either, modern system built a year ago, 14900K, 4070 Ti, not short on performance. It could be something goofy like a USB power issue or USB 2.0, 3.0, etc. For example, if my Quest 3 is plugged into the wrong port, it doesn't work. Maybe the wheel is sensitive also to specific USB ports. I'll start moving it around to see if I can put it on one that is more stable? I'll need to play around a little bit. I might also look into maybe a powered USB hub or something since it could be a power issue? I have no idea.

Again, much better, no actual disconnects now. I'm not actually dropping the wheel or anything now which is good. But it still has random hick-ups that just seem to throw away steering. It just seems to lose that axis. When it happens there's always a slight pause in the gameplay. It studders briefly every time it happen. It seems if the studder is short enough, nothing happens. But if it's too long, something times out or gets dropped.

This also happens with the Pit House program closed, so it's not that. I also have no other Windows notifications or popups during it. I could see something pulling focus away as a possible fault mode, but there's nothing.

I'll keep fiddling around and see if there's something critical that's happening. So far I can move the USB location, and this does have an effect. Different ports do seem to be more or less stable. I'll keep playing with that and see if the wheelbase just isn't happen with certain USB generations???

I figured out the issue. It was power options USB sleep settings. I recently upgraded to Windows 11, and I guess it just assumes a desktop PC needs battery saving features enabled???

The dumb thing is they hide the setting by default, so step one is enabling access to it in the first place, restarting, and then disabling the power option setting.

There's a bunch of Microsoft posts about it and some Youtube videos I found to enable actually seeing the setting and making the change.

I've done a bunch of laps and no issue at all.

What originally pointed me to the issue was Moza Pit House closed did nothing, and I was running BeamNG and constantly getting both the steering wheel and the handbrake (but oddly nothing else) disconnecting and resetting. I pulled the handbrake maybe thinking it was doing something goofy, but the steering wheel alone was still doing it. So multiple games, multiple components. I dug into it more, and it seems like USB constantly disconnecting is a common issue.

So all is fixed, and it's Microsoft's fault! lol.

Didn't know about the reset, so I'll check that.

I certainly don't need the pit software running (I don't think) to have stuff work, so I'll try that too.

I have a weird glitch. I have a Moza direct drive wheel and I have everything set up and working. The game will play fine and play for some random amount of time with zero issues.

Then at some random point I will get a screen glitch like the whole game lags briefly, and then it continues on. When it lags like this is dropps the wheel. The FFB stops completely and the wheel is loose. It stops reading steering inputs entirely, and the axis is locked at whatever position it was during the glitch. All other controls remain normal, all other axis work without issue. It's just the steering wheel.

In windows the Moza Pit House apps shows the wheel and the current angle fine. The wheel is lit up, and everything seems ok.

I can also do nothing besides close LFS and restart LFS touching nothing else, and LFS picks up the wheel axis again and the FFB is on again.

I don't know what the game is doing during this event or why it seems to lose and not be able to recover the steering axis or regain FFB. I also don't know why it's only that.

I haven't played LFS for a number of years, but I used to run an old Logitech G37 wheel for a few years with zero issues.

It acts like a communication problem, but it shows in Windows fine, including real time angle changes while LFS sees nothing until I restart the game.

Is this a known issue?

Any feedback on what I'm experiencing?

Yes.

It's somewhere down in Brazil right now, most likely with someone going vroom vroom, beep beep behind it.

Is there a "gift" option like other countries where you can bypass local fees/taxes on shipped products?

USPS Express mail is $164 shipped to Brazil. They have standard Priority mail for $114, but there is no tracking or much for shipping info. I generally only use Express.

You seemed pretty spot on for shipping costs. Still, it beats $600 US, lol.

I'm aware of the cost of technology in your country. I don't know why they do it, but whatever...just insanely expensive.

Up on Ebay now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Logitech-G ... ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hmm, I may just throw this thing up on Ebay. They seem to sell pretty easy up in the $225-$250 range no problem.

Small add:
$200 US + shipping to anywhere in the world. I use USPS for international, comes to around $40 to $50 US or so for things I've sent in the past.

Ah, so it works perfectly then, lol.

Ok, so the shifter works fine.

I that case, I'm selling it for $200.000001 + sh

I'm selling my G25 wheel. Yeah, I know, , but I just don't use it all that often, maybe once a month. I may eventually buy another one or something else, but right now, it's just taking up space and I'd rather have a couple hundred extra in my pockets.

I bought it on Ebay last October, a refurbished unit I think, decent price for the time. The wheel, shifter, and pedals are all in great condition.

The only problem is that the shifter doesn't switch into sequential mode. You can turn the knob, but something is not hooked up right inside and it goes half way, shoves the shifter down into 4th, and locks up. It came this way to me when I first bought it, but I've had no need to open it up and see what was wrong. Heck, maybe I'm just doing it wrong, lol, I don't know. The H-shifter works fine, and the paddles are used for the Formula cars anyways.

I think I paid $265 for it when I got it back in October. The going rate right now seems to average about $250, + or -. I'd like $200 + sh which seems to be a competitive rate for used ones selling now on Ebay. I figure shipping will be around $15 or so.

If you want pics, I can take a few if you want. Except for a little dust collection, it's pretty close to new condition. Don't worry, I'll clean out the dust bunnies and make it look sparkly before I package. I also have the original box, documentation, etc. for it too and the box will be shipped within another shipping container.

I don't really find the diff setups a problem. If that's the way people want to address tuning, super. There really is no "wrong" way to set up a car. It's really whatever works for you. The diff is one approach to this. Locked can work for certain situations. It just depends on what you're trying to achieve.

I've generally preferred a viscous diff because it's a little less intrusive on handling. The clutch type is more stable for drifting though. I personally don't like high coast locking because it can introduce excess understeer and difficult steering with my particular setup. I could modify the setup to work around this or even favor this behavior if I wanted. This is part of the process. As well the settings will vary depending on track, corner sharpness, the amount of steer in, and throttle given. In the end, you're simply stuck with a best fit and something that works well for you.

It's hard not to call it a racing simulation. This is the goal of the design. The developers approach the project with a simulation in their minds. They give us cars, tracks, and good physics. However, they don't control what the end user does with this. The game is a simulation, even if the game play by the end users may not be focused in this way.

Racecar Engineering had an article some time back that discussed differentials and their effects on a car's behavior. Their example car was some race prepped Porsche, modeled up in some software (not sure what specifically) and was presented some basic inputs like steer angle, torque load, speed, etc. to provide some mid corner state. From there, they discussed various effects different preloads and locking behaviors would have on the car's balance (understeer/oversteer) and maybe some side-effects. The article was a bit complex in explanation. However, the gist of it was diffs are complex, not in their behavior but rather in their effect on the car. Essentially, the proper diff setup was very dependent on what was going on at a particular time. If you changed throttle level, accel/brake, changed steering angle (changing tire loading), you get very different results and different differential needs to maintain a neutral balance. In the end, you sort of make a best fit setup that was tailored to track and driving style as best you could and leave it at that. There are some basic behaviors you can control through adjustment, but most everything is a trade-off of one thing for another.

You guys argue about locked diffs and high locking and preload, but in reality, it's perfectly fine as long as it creates the desired resuilts. I'm glad some folks love it. I hate it, lol. I tend to tune my setups through spring/dampening/brake bias rather than trying to fix an imbalance through the diffs. Then again, it's all driving style and certain diff setups and certain suspension configurations will suit certain people better. It's just another tuning option.

Another note. You'll find different tire widths used in real life as well, wider in front for fwd cases. Changing tire/wheel sizes is not something currently implemented in LFS as a normal feature. Changing to different tires can provide different grip characteristics. Similar goes for camber as a person can run excessive camber angles to limit or maximize the contact patch. Air pressures too influence tire and car behavior.

The physics of LFS is quite good, more so than you initially realize. However, like Scawen said, it is generalized. There's only a certain level of detail that can be implemented with so much work. I'd personally love to see an expansion of surface types as well as tire compound and tread choices more akin to what is experienced and is available in real life, but I wouldn't expect such a level within LFS at this time in development.

The whining about these clutches is way overrated. I have no clue specifically how these clutches are implemented, but it just isn't that bad.

In real life, you will have a lot of variation as some have pointed out. Some stock configurations can happily take one redline launch after another while another car may be unusable after one or two until things cool. It depends on how beefy the manufacturer made the clutch system relative to the car. It could be that the LFS cars are running some sort of ceramic sport clutch. Who knows. It's very similar with brakes. Stock organic pads overheat easily. A simple step to ceramic drastically changes the capability.


Having driven real cars for some time, having been raised on and owning manual transmission cars, and having done some sport level driving in real life as well, I see no real problems with the LFS system, nothing that screams fix me. I'm sure people could argue one way or another about heat up, dissipation, wear, etc., but in reality cars vary a LOT. We can't exactly pick one, exact configuration and say it's perfect. We just aim for something in the middle and call it good enough or at least a relatively accurate representation of the real thing. You can't expect much else without breaking down every single LFS car into it's parts and essentially engineering each car from scratch with a particular goal in mind like real manufacturers do when they build new cars. That just won't happen in a game environment. There are no design goals, budgets, material choices, and build specs to each car.

Have him play it. Either he likes it or he doesn't. He has free reign to choose what he wants to play. As long as he's aware of its existence, he's fine. One day he'll mature and settle in like the rest of us.

First time I got to run the new patch was yesterday.

I may be a little biased having owned a "proper" wheel/3 pedal/shifter setup unlike a good portion of you. Then again, I may be biased because I was raised and drive manual cars in real life too, unlike a good portion of you.

The clutch system, to me, seems very much fine. I see no real problem with it in terms of realism or behavior, nothing that screams change it. It really does take blatant abuse to have problems. Even simple flat shifting doesn't seem to get the clutch overheated. It takes a good bit of me driving around like I own a CVT transmission to get the thing hot and slipping. I basically have to do things that I'd never do in real life because I know it would destroy the clutch in order to destroy the clutch in the game.

Nice post.

I think people don't realize how many people here are probably younger than 15-16 years of age and with no real world driving experience. Even if they are old enough, a large portion of these older people have also not (or very rarely) driven a stick. Couple this with the complete lack of "feel" that would exist in a real car, I can see why many people just have a hard time with this new patch.

Ditto on the in-car animation comments for the Devs.

Nice movies.

A common saying but always true. If you want a car to go faster, you have to fix the driver first. Unless you're beating track records, you still haven't gotten the speed out of the cars yet. Even the lowly UF1000 is fast if you're driving it at its limits. I'll simply say there's a difference just driving fast and driving on the edge, and if you're not on the edge, everything will feel slow, even at 300mph.

Ok, I'm just curious what you guys think about this. This has always bugged me since the Devs dropped the ability to run Supers on the GTI/XRT cars. I have always thought of these cars as superior to their higher powered counterparts in tight, twisty courses(mainly auto-x), and in many cases, they could out run their heavier siblings. However, after limiting them to only using Normal tires, they just don't compare. I rarely find myself even driving these cars anymore because they don't have an advantage now.

I know there's the arguement about if Supers or Slicks were available on every car, people would run it. Sure. That's the case because the tracks are yet to surfaces complex enough to take advantage of the tire types. We have yet to worry about dirt on the road surface or rain or cold weather that would compromise the higher gripping tires. However, in the real world, even a person running the tiniest, slowest car can go out and buy R compound tires. Even in competitions, there is only limitations on R vs street tires, and there are many classified street tires that would be comparable to the Supers.

I could see it as forcing car classes and to further seperate the car groups, but I find this disturbing. I think of it as the wrong approach. Certain courses will favor certain cars naturally. There's no reason to force the issue with tire limitations.

I guess this is sort of a gripe/plea to the Devs to re-introduce Supers to the base cars again, just because Joe Shmoe can go out to his local tire store and buy a set and throw them on his crappy car and in many racing events, it would still be a "street" tire as long as treadwear ratings were sufficient.

It's a good start.

By the way, what kind of wax do you use on your cars?

Quote from theirishnoob :

power sliding is easy , drifting is hard

I'm with theirishnoob. There's a difference between sliding sideways and driving sideways.

By the fwds can drift just fine. They just are limited in usable techniques. fwds can drift, rwds can drift, awds can drift, bikes can drift. It doesn't matter. The principle techniques and actions are identical. The powertrain only affects on-throttle behavior. Off throttle techniques like feint, braking drift, or e-brake work the same way on any powertrain.

When are you good at drifting or driving is when the car does exactly what you want it to do...all the time. Grip or drift, you're on a racing line or a squiggly one, lol, but it's one you follow precisely, straight or sideways.

It's kind of fun when you can drift an entire course and beat your previous grip and drift PBs. It's a good sign that you're keeping the car tight and on the line and really pushing hard.

Quote from Bob Smith :

Aha, mvw2 from RSC IIRC?

/OT

Yes?